Yokomo DPR Hamachi-Style, part 2.

Yokomo DPR Hamachi-Style, part 2.

A parts breakdown of Hayato Yoshiba's 2WD setting sheet.

This is Hayato Yoshiba's setting sheet for a Type-C w/ the D-162P 2WD conversion installed:

As you can see, it is designed for Yatabe Area, which is an indoor asphalt track with medium traction. My local course in also indoors, but is a polished and sealed concrete floor, so there will be some difference. However, I would like to start with this setting for the DPR and go from there.

Parts Lists

In addition to obvious parts from the D-162P conversion kit, there are parts used but not included with either the DPR or Type-C. Some of these are minor, such as wheel or suspension block spacers, while others are more substantial, as new suspension arms or steering blocks. Here are the parts that I will be purchasing as I do not need a complete 201 kit:

• Front Suspension Parts (for the DPR)
•  D-163 Aluminum Steering Bell Crank for 2WD Drift Conversion PRO/RS 201
•  D-164 Aluminum Front Lower A-Arm fro 2WD Drift Conversion PRO/RS 201
•  D-166 Aluminum Front Steering Block for 2WD (L/R)
•  D-171G Progressive Drift Spring 1.3x9.5 turn (Green)
•  SD-300S Aluminum Suspension Mount Spacer*
•  ZC-A36## Aluminum 3.0 x 6.0 x ## Spacer (Blue)**
• 2x A3620 for the bell cranks
• 2x A3620 for the steering block upper king pins
• 2x A3630 for the steering block lower king pins
• 2x A3630 for the front front suspension block (FF)
• 2x A3620 for the front rear suspension block (FR)
• 2x A3615 for the front rear suspension block (FR)
• Rear Suspension Parts (for the DPR)
• D-026 Aluminum Rear Shock Tower
• D-171G Progressive Drift Spring 1.3x9.5 turn (Green)
• RR1.0 Suspension Block***
• SD-008HG Graphite H.D. Lower Suspension Arm
• SD-415G10 Graphite Rear Hub Carrier (Toe-in 1.0)****
• SD-501DS or SD-501 DA Ball Differential
• ZC-A36## Aluminum 3.0 x 6.0 x ## Spacer (Blue)
• 2x A3610- for the rear front suspension block (RF)
• 2x A3630 - for the rear rear suspension block (RR)  
• ZS-011EL Aluminum Light Weight Wheel Hub

* You don't need to purchase these as the spacers used for the rear suspension blocks are not used and you can use them for the front suspension blocks.

** The DPR comes with spacers for the suspension arms, but the 2WD arms are not as wide as the stock ones, hence the 3.0mm spacer in the front and the 3.5mm worth of spacers in the rear.

*** I'm not sure what block is used as Yokomo does not offer a RR1.0 block.

**** The rear hub carriers are swappable so they can either be a 1.0 toe-out or a 1.0 toe-in block. Flipping the blocks and using them with the stock RR2.0 rear suspension mount results in a 1.0 degree rear toe-in.

Yokomo DPR Hamachi-Style

Yokomo DPR Hamachi-Style

Summertime and the drifting's easy...

With the YD-4 completed for now with the exception of fine tuning and summer fast approaching, I thought I would pick up a chassis for outside (asphalt) driving. Initially, I thought about picking up a Yokomo Drift Package Type-C and the Yokomo PRO 201 2WD Drift Conversion (D-162P). However, Banzai Hobby was running a ludicrous sale on the DPR ($319 before shipping!). For all those who aren't familiar with the DPR, it is Yokomo's ultimate shaft-driven drift car, with much of the aftermarket parts already available for the Drift Package series included. For instance, the only two parts in the PRO 201 2WD conversion kit that the DPR doesn't already include are the steering arms and the lower suspension arms.

A week after placing my Banzai Hobby order, the following items arrived, with the exception of the gold Overdose differential case, which was a spare from my FR-D build:

• Yokomo DPR
• Yokomo BL-RS3 ESC & 10.5T ZeroOne Motor Combo
• Yokomo 32T Pinion Gear
• Yokmo Digital Low Profile Serv
• Yokomo YG301 Gyro

I plan on picking up the two parts from the PRO 201 kit I do not already own in the near future, but this is going to be my slow build, focusing primarily on Yokomo parts and borrowing heavily from Hayato Yoshiba's setting sheet. My next post will be a breakdown of all the parts mentioned in the setting sheet.

Yokomo YD-4 RWD

Yokomo YD-4 RWD

Construction Complete

I finished assembling the YD-4 in accordance to the supplied instruction, gave it a thorough examination, and promptly converted it to RWD with part from my local RC drift store. The chassis showed a lot of promise for RWD, with Drift Package-compatible gearboxes and 3mm suspension hinge pins.The slide rack is stable and provides for precise setting of Ackermann geometry.

Here are the aftermarket parts I used to convert the YD-4:

• MST HT Aluminium Front Lower Arm Set  (Purple)
• MST FXX Adjuster Set 5.8 (4)
• Usukani KPI Knuckles (Black)
• Wrap-Up Next 0148-FD Aluminum KONDO Custom HD Upper Arm (Black)
• Yokomo IB-414KBC (Black)

I was going to go with the Wrap-Up lower arm to match the upper arms, but decided that a little color would be nice on this otherwise all-black chassis. The MST FXX Adjuster Set is my go-to for king ball attachment as they are easy to adjust and do not require pliers to install the ball caps. However, you have to take care to not tighten the screws that hold the little cap in place or else you'll cause the king ball to bind. Usukani knuckles are cheap and cheerful.

Here's a picture of the final product with drivetrain & electronics installed:

• Motor: Yokomo Zero 10.5T
• ESC: Yokomo BL-RS3 ＋Turbo
• Receiver: Futaba R204GF-E
• Servo: PowerStar PL-1207 LV Brushless Digital Servo
• Gyro: PowerStar PS-755 High Stability RC Car Gyroscope

I have a pretty basic core electronics package that I used with all my chassis. Other folks might like Accuvance, but I personally can't justify the price of their ESC and motors over the Yokomo equivalent and I doubt I'm the level of driver who could. So I stick with my Yokomo Motor/ESC combos and try to do the best I can.

Normally I use a Futaba digital servo and D-Like gyro, but Kong had a shipment of these PowerStar items arrive the week before I purchased the YD-4 so I decided to give them a shot. The owner has them in his highly customized Drift Package as well.

Now, I just need to take her out to the track and see how she handles. One thing you'll notice is that the front dampers are mounted upside down. :p